Brooch Project – Final Piece

For the final brooch choice I picked the score & fold with geometric shape. This piece is in-keeping with the work I’ve done over the year and hopefully will appeal to those looking to be more bold with their brooch/pin.

I used piercing, scoring & folding, oxidising, resin and reticulation techniques for this piece. (Below are the samples).

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  • I used the disc cutter to create the base of the brooch. I used 0.7mm sterling silver sheet. I cut away a geometric shape to add detail to the back and also to allow the wearer to look through all the layers. I also pierced out from 0.7mm silver sheet a square pattern I’d created which includes a geometric shape. I used the score and fold method to bend these squares into the desired, box-like shape and soldered it to the circular base. I oxidised the inside of the square forms and then added to the geometric shape a layer of resin which I gave a yellow pigment to.
  • The Top piece was also cut from the disc cutter but a slightly larger circle was used. I cut a disc from copper sheet and then pierced a geometric shape out of the copper disc which I then added small chips of sterling silver to and melted and reticulated the silver onto the surface. I then added solder to the other side and melted that over the copper to cover it. I didn’t use silver ships as I wasn’t wanting the same ‘reticulated’ effect. I then domed the piece. What I love about reticulating silver onto copper is that it works differently to reticulating straight onto silver. I also love the rose hue it creates.
  • Our lecturer had already made the brooch frame which he then made a rubber mould of and cast multiple times so that everyone in class could make an interchangeable brooch. All I had to do to this was give it a little clean up and add some tube so that a steel pin could be inserted. I also oxidised the inside of the frame and the front rim and left the rest with a satin, silver finish.

 

This project is about getting men into jewellery. The brooches will be on display at the college exhibition on June 13th and then at the Elements exhibition later in the year. They will be available to buy will all proceeds going to charity for testicular cancer. As part of the exhibition we were asked to get men to model the brooches so I had my oldest brother and my 8 year old nephew model the brooch.

Stevie.

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Brooch Project – Part 3

I’ve been playing around with samples. Below are some of the techniques I’ve been using. The main brooch frame is sterling silver which I have partly oxidised. I have created a domed top using copper which I have pierced out a geometric shape from. I reticulated pieces of silver on top of the copper and then domed it. I’ve used this top to place over the final samples.

Enamel

Here, I have created enamelled panels which can be swapped out for different colours or patterns.

 

Score and Fold, Reticulation & Textures

Here, I have used the disc cutter to create the base circle. I used a ball pein hammer to create the texture before cutting out the circle (so not to distort the circular shape) then domed it to fit the brooch frame. I then cut out a square pattern from copper. I placed pieces of silver on top and melted them creating this reticulated effect. I then scored and folded them in different directions and soldered to the copper dome.

 

Stone Setting

Below I have set an unusually shaped, synthetic stone. I cut out the base circle using the disc cutter and copper, I then flooded some silver solder on top to give me an idea of how it all would look together in silver, although, I was also contemplating oxidising the base black. I cut some 3mm copper wire and sawed it into 3 equal lengths. I soldered these to the base disc assessing the distance between the 3 pillars by eye and using the stone to gauge how close they should be to hold the stone in place. This was surprisingly pretty easy. I used a triangle needle file to saw into the wires (all at an equal height), just enough to pop the stone into place. Using my flat nose pliers, I pulled back one of the prongs slightly to insert the stone into the grooves and then moved the prong back into place. The stone is nice and secure.

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Score & Fold, Oxidising and Resin

I again, used the disc cutter to create the base of the brooch. I cut away a geometric shape to add detail to the back and also to allow the wearer to look through all the layers. I then pierced out a square pattern I’d created with a geometric shape attached. I used the score and fold method to bend these squares into the desired shape and soldered it to the circular base. I oxidised the inside of the square forms and then added a layer of resin which I gave a yellow pigment to onto the geometric shape.

 

Blog on final piece to follow.

Stevie

Brooch Project – Part 1

I am making a brooch (for MEN!) as part of the Manufacturing Techniques brief. I need to experiment with at least 4 different techniques and the final piece should include 2.

My lecturer made a brooch frame and then had is cast multiple times and handed these out to everyone in class with the aim of this Man Brooch project frame to have interchangeable inserts. I absolutely love this idea and have seen jewellers’ do this with their own jewellery in many different ways in the past and it is something I’d love to try myself at some point with my own, personal line of work. So this is a great way to get some practise in. Thankfully the cast frame has been made to fit a circular disc which can be cut from the disc cutter in class, making the ‘interchangeable‘ part much easier.

Below are a few experiments and samples of ideas. I’m still however, working on the ‘manly’ part, although I love the idea of men stepping outside their comfort zone and wearing something outside of the ‘stereotypical norm’.

Reticulation
Here I have used the disc cutter to cut out some copper. I placed small chips of scrap silver over the copper and began heating until the silver pieces melted and ran and bubbled over the copper surface, creating a lovely texture. This looks slightly rose gold in colour with the copper shining through the silver. I then domed this slightly to fit neatly into the brooch frame.
I would like to try and place a strip on Keum Boo down the piece, however I am unsure whether the keum boo will adhere to the surface securely with the undertone being copper? I feel it is unfinished though, so if keum boo will not work I’d possibly add a stone using a tube setting, or perhaps a cast element? Currently, the piece reminds me of the moon, unexpected but very happy with it.

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Cast Elements
I used the disc cuter to cut a copper circle and then again to cut out a smaller circle, slightly off centre. I used the same ‘reticulation’ technique and domed the circle again to fit snugly into the frame. I looked at inserting cast elements that fit nicely inside the domed piece. Here I looked at setting a stone into the centre of the cast element and then popping this reticulated, domed piece on top, ‘framing’ the cast element. (Excuse the blue-tac stain, was still experimenting with placements).

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Enamel
Using the reticulated and cut out frame, I looked into adding a pop of colour. What better way to do this than with enamel (haha – Not!) I managed to get lucky with the enamel this time after a few attempts on scrap copper. I used a Mustard Yellow, Blue, Mint Green and then mixed two different shades of purple to create a deep Plum colour. The mint green peeled at one side and turned black but I like this effect even though I cannot explain how it happened. These enamelled discs were cut using the slightly smaller circle on the disc cutter with the larger, domed disc holding them nicely in place.

Score & Fold
Using the previously made samples above as a base, I designed and cut out from copper square forms. As it’s just a sample, I reticulated some silver over the surface of the square form to give the illusion of silver. I then used the score and fold method to angle them in different ways. I have been testing out the placement of this form over the domed circle and adding coloured discs underneath.

 

These are just a few samples and ideas and looking at other techniques to sample, such as Keum boo, Patinas and adding texture using hammers and the rolling mill.

Stevie.

 

 

The Street -Interchangeable Brooch Designs

I’ve made an off-kilter square frame using square silver wire Colin gave to the class (thank you!). After a couple of weeks of thinking about how to use this, and although Colin recommended we stick with circles for simplicity, I made up my mind and went with my gut. I could have done a circle but that has zero relation to any work I’ve produced over my 2 years of study. I like angles and off kilter shapes so I felt this would be the right direction to go down. I didn’t want a perfect square so angled it all oddly and I like the extended ends also. I thinned down the 2mm wire slightly using the draw plate as I wanted a slightly thinner wire. Although the draw plate offers many shapes to change your wire to (Triangular, Oval, etc) I love square wire and this matches well with my current street theme.

I wasn’t able to do much over the October break as I lacked copper to sample with and do not have an enamelling kit at home but managed to put a few ideas together after getting back to class yesterday. I am just playing around with this interchangeable brooch idea which I love, however I don’t think this is the route I will be going down with my final pieces. The parts would be held in place by tabs and I have a few more sketch ideas on this but below are the ones I was able to put together quickly.

Here there is a piece of copper I enamelled yellow with a sprinkle of ‘cherry red’ as I was wanting a burgundy-type effect and a piece of copper with cut out squares which has been placed in a liver of sulphur patina turning it black. I also cut out a group of overlapping squares, scored and folded them a little in different directions and then enamelled the piece yellow.

 

Below are some quick sketch ideas and notes of other ideas I have had for an interchangeable brooch idea. However, as excited as I was about this idea, I have quickly gone off it.

Stevie.

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